Grandma Kunstle’s Hefekranz

Some form of sweet yeast bread, usually with raisins or other fruit, is a holiday tradition in many cultures.  For my family, which hails from southern Germany, our tradition for the week of Christmas (and often New Year’s and Easter as well) has always been Hefekranz. 

My grandparents, Jacob and Marie Kunstle (née Molinari), emigrated from the village of Pfrondorf, just a few kilometers from the university town of Tübingen, during the 1920’s.  Of course, they brought with them a number of recipes and traditions, including Grandma Kunstle’s Hefekranz.  Although “Kranz” literally means “wreath” we’ve always made Hefekranz in loaves, either in long bread pans or simply on a baking sheet. 

The bread itself is not particularly sweet, so we pack the dough with raisins until they fall out during kneading, notwithstanding which, it’s also a family tradition for my father to say “good, but next year more raisins!”  When I was a kid, my mom would also add candied cherry pieces, pushing them into the top of the braids after the last rise (and those were the slices we wanted the most).  

But the best part of all was (and is) the powdered sugar frosting, generously drizzled over the top.  Along with a chilled half-grapefruit, soft-boiled egg (wachsweich bitte) and strong coffee, Hefekranz is an essential part of the perfect Christmastime breakfast.

DPK

Grandma Kunstle’s Hefekranz

by Marie Molinari Kunstle

Makes 3 braided loaves, or one large wreath.

Notes from Dave: 

• Along with (or in addition to) the raisins, you could add just about any kind of dried or candied fruit you like.  We recently tried whole dried cherries, which was excellent.  This year, we were traditionalists and went with raisins only. (Personally, I prefer golden raisins, but suit yourself).
• This recipe requires 3 rises in a warmed oven (oven should be preheated to lowest setting for a few minutes and then turned off before the dough goes in to rise). Be sure your bread is oiled and covered well during each rise to avoid drying out or sticking.

Ingredients:

• 4 1/2 tsp. (approx.) dry yeast
• 1 1/2 c. milk, warmed but not hot
• 1 1/4 c. sugar
• 8 Tbsp. butter, melted and cooled slightly
• 3 eggs, beaten
• 1 tsp. salt
• 8-10 c. flour
• raisins, approx. 1 1/2 cups

Preparation:

1. In a large bowl, or a KitchenAid Mixer with dough hook, add warmed milk and whisk in yeast. Let set for 5 minutes or so, until yeast begins to bubble a bit.
2. Add the sugar, butter, and eggs. Gradually add about 2 cups of the flour, then sprinkle in the salt. Add the raisins and continue to add the flour,  incorporating until the dough becomes soft and is firm enough to knead (slightly sticky is okay, you want to avoid making this too stiff or it will taste dry once baked).
3. Knead on a clean counter-top for several minutes until the dough feels smooth and elastic. In a large bowl, swirl the dough in a little olive oil and cover with plastic wrap.
4. Preheat oven to a bread-proofing setting (or as low as it will go… 170 F works) and turn off heat after about 10 minutes. Let covered dough rise in warmed oven until doubled (this can take a couple of hours).
5. Punch down, cover, and let rise again (in a re-warmed oven, if it has cooled). This will take a couple more hours.
6. Remove dough from bowl, and divide into three equal parts. Divide each section into three more equal parts (to make a braid), shape into long ropes, and braid (right over the center, left over the center!) to make 3 braided loaves on a large baking sheet. If you prefer a ring, just make ropes from the original three sections and make one long braid and connect to make a wreath. Let rise for the third time, covered loosely with platic wrap, in a gently warmed oven.
7. Bake between 300 and 325 F for 40-50 minutes until golden and tapping the loaf makes a hollow sound. Depending on your oven, you may need to cover the bread with foil to keep it from browning too much. I find that when the house smells of fragrant baked bread, it’s usually done!
8. Let cool on racks, and then frost by melting a few (3 or 4) tablespoons of butter, add a splash of vanilla (not too much, or the frosting will look too dark) and a generous pinch of salt.  Whisk in powdered sugar, and thin with a tablespoon or two at a time of milk or half-and-half (a little liquid goes a long way), until you have the desired amount and consistency to drizzle over the Hefekranz.